Working in the round is a challenge both for the jeweler and the gemsetter, as is exemplified by this pair of sapphire and diamond pendant earrings. The drops are fashioned from myriad small round diamonds, weighing a total of 1.75 carats, and numerous round sapphires, in varied tones of blue, weighing a total of 5.25 carats. The earrings are so beautifully proportioned, the drops have a liquid feel to them. White diamonds are sprinkled amongst the sapphires, adding brightness and glitter to the more muted blues. The ombre or shaded tones of the sapphires enable the jeweler to create a subtle visual effect, somewhat like the waves of the ocean.  

The jeweler, working with the gem supplier, lays out the various tones of sapphires, mixing them to achieve the ultimate look. Then each stone is pavé set. In this technique, the gemsetter raises up tiny white gold beads from the mounting, just enough to hold each stone in place.  Upon close inspection, one can see at least six beads touching the side of each stone. The stones are aligned in lengthwise rows, as well as in diagonal rows, adding ever more visual appeal and demonstrating the superb technical skills of the maker.

This flexible enamel and gold snake bracelet, with diamond and emerald accents, is a superb example of jewelry making. The bracelet is worn by gently expanding the coils to fit around the wrist. The blue and green enamel ‘scales’ overlap along the length of the bracelet, flexing but not breaking. Enamel is a difficult and delicate process that combines glassmaking skills as well as metalsmithing, all of it beginning with the artistry of the design. This bracelet posed many challenges to the anonymous maker. 

Each scale was fitted into overlapping rows, with alternating sections of blue enamel nestling within the majority green body of the piece.  Each section is striated, to simulate the skin of a snake.  The rows are then fitted together in circular sections and hinged to allow them to flex, while staying firmly attached. The bracelet expands from an inner circumference of five inches to approximately 6 ½ inches. The head of the snake, all blue enamel, is accented by 23 round diamonds, weighing about 0.55 carat total, along with two round emeralds for the eyes.  A tiny gold tongue pokes out from the front of the head. This is a tour-de-force of jewelry making.

The soft petals of a pink rose were captured in naturalistic detail in a gold, enamel and diamond brooch made by German jeweler René Kern. The piece, measuring 4 ½ inches in length, depicts a fully opened blossom, with a smaller bud that is about to open. The enamel petals are edged in full cut and single-cut diamonds as is the innermost part of the main flower. The diamonds suggest dew drops on the petals and nestle within gold settings. One enamel leaf, artfully merging yellow and green tones along the 18k gold stem, gives even more life to the piece. Working enamel on rounded surfaces is the ultimate achievement of this demanding technique. Here, colors are muted and shaded for the ultimate realism. Each petal was modeled individually, and then affixed to the blossoms. The fully opened flower as well as the bud rest delicately, but firmly, on the 18k gold stems. The piece was hallmarked and signed, and offered in a fitted box.

Rene Kern opened his business in Dusseldorf, Germany in 1950, ultimately growing into an international firm with royal clients. Over time, the company was sold and merged becoming part of the Garrard Group and finally Bucherer.